30/05/2014

SOTD 30/05/2014


Routine

Hot Towel
Wickham's Spice Trade
Kent Infinity Silvertex
Waterhouse Kamisori
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
Imperial Leather Aftershave

Technique

Bowl Lathered
Two Pass - WTG & XTG/ATG

Impression

Wickham's soap was lovely! Great lather, easily built, easily spoiled, but I know the drill ... slow and steady, then hit it with some water at the end. Two very cushioned passes. Nice.

Again, the blade played out well. I was more confident and nicked myself. Slow down, lad.

29/05/2014

SOTD 29/05/2014


Routine

Hot Towel
Tabac Shaving Soap
Kent Infinity Silvertex
Waterhouse Kamisori
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
Tabac After Shave
Tabac Eau de Cologne

Technique

Bowl Lathered
Two Pass - WTG & XTG/ATG

Impression

Phwoar! I enjoyed that ...

28/05/2014

SOTD 28/05/2014

Durham Duplex 1907 Anniversary Shave

Patented 28th May 1907, presenting the Durham Duplex system ...

 

Routine

Hot Towel
Gillette Sensitive Gel
Durham Demonstrator
Personna [7]
Hot Rinse & Cold Rinse
Pinaud Clubman Virgin Island Bay Rum

Technique

Three Pass - WTG, WTG & ATG

Impression

"To be used with Durham Duplex blades"

I have a couple of NOS blades, both from 1911 (7th November for a US Made one and 4th July for the British Made) - I went with the British Made. Both have been honed by a pal on a Welsh slate progression and then finished with CrOx on balsa. Stropped on leather, good to go on a test area of my hand.

Well, the first pass on stubble was not as good as it might, so I swapped over to a modern Personna blade which has been well used, but stropped after each use and most recently given a little more of an edge with Elsterglanz on balsa-backed firm foam and stropped on leather.

That worked!

Re-doing the WTG pass and making one ATG pass, I got very smooth indeed! Two areas just to polish up and I'm happy with my anniversary shave for this old device - it's not one which is loved by many anymore, but it certainly is by me. I've found previously that the stubble grows through smoother, so I'm expecting a nice smooth face for a short while now.

Quick rinse, splash of Pinaud Clubman VIBR ...

Lovely job! I don't get that burn that many refer to with this aftershave. I get a real warmth, but a numb warm. No burn.

26/05/2014

SOTD 26/05/2014


Routine

Hot Shower
T&H Ultimate Comfort PSO
Palmolive Shaving Cream
Kent Infinity Silvertex
Microtome Kamisori
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
4711 Echt Kölnischt Wasser

Technique

Bowl Lathered
Three Pass - WTG, XTG & GTX/ATG

Impression

Phew! I made it! My first ATG with a straight ...

Lovely shave with the grain, cross the grain from the middle out and then on my third pass, it was a cross the grain but in the opposite direction from the outside to the middle including against the grain on my neck and around the round of my chin.

I got one nick. Very light, very minor and entirely down to the Mrs charging in and messing about with something. Eye off the ball for one split second and I got a very light nick on my cheek. No blood, but it will come up in a red line in an hour, or so. I've moisturised it. I should have salted it and made out it was some mensur scar.

The alum proved it a little rough, but smoother shaves will come with practice.

Positive and encouraging. I got a full and clean shave, something which I've been just a little shy of with straights so far, not quite daring that third pass. I love this Kamisori-style.

25/05/2014

SOTD 25/05/2014

... another "not a long comb" but the tail end of a run of razors which are very much related. Later Techs are a bit lighter, these last two are simply British long combs without the comb.


Routine

Hot Towel
Stirling Bergamot & Lavender Soap
Kent Infinity Silvertex
Gillette Tech (Canada 1932)
Gillette 365 Stainless [1]
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
Brut Original Aftershave

Technique

Face Lathered
Three Pass - WTG, XTG & GTX

Impression

What a surprise! What a great blade! Very smooth and very efficient!

I get the impression that this might be a really sharp and potentially blood-letting blade, but in a Tech ... what a great shave!

The soap was just lovely, and deepening that simple scent with the aftershave made for a great finish.

What a bonny shave!

24/05/2014

SOTD 24/05/2014

Pretty much the same shave as last night but with a solid bar rather than a long comb on what is exactly the same Tech razor ...


Routine

Hot Towel
Ingram's Shaving Cream
Kent Infinity Silvertex
Gillette Tech - early, heavy base plate
Gillette Super Thin (Vintage?) [2]
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
Blue Stratos Aftershave

Technique

Bowl Lathered
Three Pass - WTG, XTG & GTX

Impression

Last night was a long comb shave with what I describe as a Tech. It has the same cap, same handle, same thickness base plate ... just that last night had a comb and tonight has a solid bar.

Great shave!

23/05/2014

SOTD 23/05/2014

Week of British Long Combs

I'm having a week with my British long combs ... Day 5


Routine

Hot Towel
Tabac Shaving Soap
Kent Infinity Silvertex
Gillette Tech Long Comb
Gillette Super Thin (Vintage?) [1]
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
Tabac Aftershave
Tabac EDC

Technique

Bowl & Face Lathered
Three Pass - WTG, XTG & ATG

Impression

I'm sure this is a Frankenrazor, but it's a good one. Absolutely identical in every way to an early Tech except for the long comb and a Gillette Super Thin blade which I think is vintage - help me out, folks, is it?

So ends my week with British Long Combs.

What a great shave and what a great end to the run!

Tomorrow, I'll shave with the Tech equivalent of this razor - absolutely, completely and utterly the same but a solid guard Tech plate instead of the comb.

I'm going to think of this razor as the one that Gillette never made.

22/05/2014

SOTD 22/05/2014

Week of British Long Combs

I'm having a week with my British long combs ... Day 4


Routine

Hot Towel
Mystery Soap No.8
Kent Infinity Silvertex
Gillette/7 O'Clock Long Comb
Gillette Rubie Platinum Plus
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
Quorum Aftershave
Quorum EDT

Technique

Bowl Lathered
Two Pass - WTG & XTG

Impression

Another run with mystery soap no.8, which I was disappointed with on first use but a little more soap and the synthetic seemed to whip it up just perfectly, not thin or unprotective, quite the opposite.

Lovely razor, but again, the blade did seem to be a little rough. Very sharp, but not what I'd call smooth. I knew I was shaving whereas there are other blades I have that genuinely do not feel like they're there.

In all, enjoyed.

21/05/2014

SOTD 21/05/2014

Week of British Long Combs

I'm having a week with my British long combs ... Day 3


Routine

Hot Towel
Mystery Soap No.9
Kent Infinity Silvertex
Gillette/Grom Long Comb
Gillette Platinum [1]
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
Rose of Bulgaria Aftershave

Technique

Bowl Lathered
Three Pass - XTG, WTG & GTX

Impression

Another run with Mystery Soap No.9, this time lathered up with a synthetic which I do believe gave me a stunningly good lather. I still got some irritation from the soap by the third pass, something I've only really got from soaps that include shea butter. I'm guessing. Post-shave, I think the soap has contributed well to a smooth and conditioned skin.

The Grom was fun. Seemingly the same as the Nacet, it was actually quite different. Very forgiving on angle, yet it's sink its teeth in without warning. I think I just got a little blasé and a couple of weepers emerged.

All gone with the post-shave alum wash which told me I'd actually got quite a rough shave. Perhaps this Platinum will calm down with a second run.

Soothing, healing and superbly scented Rose of Bulgaria Aftershave and I'm done.

It's the mighty 7 O'Clock tomorrow ...

20/05/2014

SOTD 20/05/2014

Week of British Long Combs

I'm having a week with my British long combs ... Day 2


Routine

Shower
Mystery Soap No.8
Pure Badger
Gillette/Nacet Long Comb
Gillette Super Nacet Platinum (Malaysian) [1]
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
Imperial Leather Aftershave

Technique

Bowl Lathered
Two Pass - XTG & WTG (yes, in that order)

Impression

Another mystery soap I'm blind testing on a forum. Not as good, poor lather, thin and grippy causing judder on the razor when shaving.

I also found the angle quite hard to get just right and so I'm left with a good, presentable shave but I know I'll want a good shave tomorrow.

Again, fun! It's the GROM tomorrow ...

19/05/2014

SOTD 19/05/2014

Week of British Long Combs

I'm having a week with my British long combs ... Day 1


Routine

Hot Towel
Mystery Soap No.9
Pure Badger
Gillette New Long Comb
Gillette Silver Blue [1]
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
Old Spice Original Aftershave

Technique

Bowl Lathered
Three Pass - WTG, XTG & GTX

Impression

So, first up is a T-pin Gillette with a ball end handle. Well balanced and drove that smooth and efficient Silver Blue perfectly.

The soap is a blind test I'm playing on a forum. Lavender, perhaps Shea. Massive lather, slightly irritating by the third pass.

All in ... cracking!

Looking forward to tomorrow ...

18/05/2014

SOTD 18/05/2014


Routine

Hot Towel
Wickham's Bay Rum & Club Cola
Kent Infinity Silvertex
GEM Micromatic Clog Pruf
GEM Vintage Super Stainless
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
Pinaud Clubman Virgin Island Bay Rum

Technique

Bowl Lathered
Two Pass - WTG & ATG

Impression

I was just testing this Clog Pruf before sending it on its merry way as a passaround on a forum. It's all good!

Anyway, good shave, with a very enjoyable blend of Wickham's Bay Rum & Club Cola ... but I have to say, someone was pulling my leg over the burn off the Pinaud Clubman VIBR ... what a fantastic smell, but burn? Nah! Well, certainly no more than the Veg.

I had a second splash an hour, or so later ... still no unbearable burn. No drama! It's a good 'un for me.

17/05/2014

SOTD 17/04/2014


Routine

Hot Towel
Wickham Master Lather Mentholated
Kent Infinity Silvertex
Le Grelot Hospital Safety Razor
CV Heljestrand Hollow Ground
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
Alt Innsbruck 66 60

Technique

Bowl Lathered
Three Pass - WTG, XTG & GTX

Impression

One of those shaves where everything worked together for one phenomenal shave.

16/05/2014

SOTD 16/05/2014


Routine

Hot Towel
Rolls Razor Shaving Soap (Vintage)
Kent Infinity Silvertex
Clemak Safety Razor - GEM Super Stainless [2]
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
Pinaud Lilac Vegetal

Technique

Bowl Lathered
Two Pass - WTG & XTG

Impression

Not a great shave, but good enough. I think this razor is one which has a specific angle which I got here and there, but in the main I'm still to find. In the end, the razor itself is simply a frame for the blade. I'm left with a smooth enough face, but know I'll be in need of a "known good" shave tomorrow night.

So, while it was not especially good, it was not especially bad ... one to work with and find the right angle.

Meanwhile, I'm starting to find that the Rolls Razor vintage soap is probably my best performer. The way it blooms into lather, thick lather is just sumptuous.

 

15/05/2014

SOTD 15/05/2014


Routine

Hot Towel
Erasmic Shaving Soap
Kent Infinity Silvertex
Gillette Injector - Gillette Platinum Plus [1]
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
Brut Original Aftershave

Technique

Bowl Lathered
Two pass - WTG & XTG

Impression

After really clicking with my Schick Stick the other night, I thought I'd run with my new Gillette Injector. Actually, this is a "Twinjector" but I've inserted a single Gillette Platinum Plus blade in there.

The blade is reputed to be a real vampire if you're not absolutely careful, but a light touch with the fresh blade and it made for a very effective shave.

14/05/2014

SOTD 14/05/2014

Late night scrape ...


Routine

Hot Towel
Erasmic Lather Shave Cream
Kent Infinity Silvertex
Ever Ready Streamline - Feather Hi-Stainless Platinum [5]
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
Pinaud Clubman After Shave
Van Cleef & Arpels Pour Homme

Technique

Bowl Lathered
Three Pass - WTG, XTG & ATG

Impression

My first run with my own Streamline ...

Just gorgeous! All the sound of the lighter 1912s, that same efficient, smooth and comfortable shave, yet the heft, weight and assurance of a very fine razor. I do think the Streamline is worth it.

Again, very much enjoying Erasmic. Good lather, good smell, good performance.

I know it's a little indulgent to go to bed with an EDT on, but this is a new one to me and I want to know exactly what I smell when I wake up - this, for me, is the best test of whether I like an EDT.

It works well with the Pinaud Clubman After Shave and gives me all the noses I like in this, in Puig Quorum and in GFT Eucris. It's a scent I like, but I do want to see what my first waking impression is ... good, I'll wear it for the day tomorrow.

12/05/2014

SOTD 12/05/2014

Word up, Schickheads!

Today is an anniversary shave of Schick's 1958 2911713 Injector Patent which pertains to models J onwards, M (Adjustables) excluded.

I chose an L: The Schick Stick.


Routine

Hot Towel
Wickham Soap Company Spice Trade (Super Smooth)
Kent Infinity Silvertex
Schick Stick - Schick Injector [2]
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
Mentholated Witch Hazel
Old Spice Aftershave Lotion
Next Absolute EDT

Technique

Bowl Lathered
Three Pass - WTG, then twice XTG in opposite directions

Impression

I've given injectors a bit of a break, having only really connected with them on the odd event I got something approaching a satisfactory shave.

Tonight, I nailed it! Boom! I got the angle spot on perfect and that was evident in the efficient clearing on the first pass, subsequent cross the grain passes finishing off the job.

Tonight was all about spice. I've been wearing Next Absolute today and being so warm out there, I thought it nice to carry on ... so, Wickham's new scent, Spice Trade, followed by an alum wash and mentholated witch hazel splash, then the genuine article: Old Spice. Lovely! Another spritz of Next Absolute and we're done.

Cracking shave, that ...

10/05/2014

SOTD 10/05/2014


Routine

Hot Towel
T&H Ultimate Comfort Pre-Shave Oil
Rolls Razor Shaving Soap (Vintage Soap)
Kent Infinity Silvertex
Rolls Razor Viscount (Vintage Blade)
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
Pinaud Clubman After Shave

Technique

Bowl Lathered
Three Pass - WTG, XTG & Alternate XTG

Impression

What an experience!

The soap is vintage and very old-fashioned. Paired with the shave from the vintage Rolls Razor blade and the Pinaud splash, I felt like I'd just walked out of a 1950s barber shop.

The soap worked, the blade worked, the shave worked.

Loved it!

09/05/2014

SOTD 09/05/2014

Something just a little different for you tonight ...



Routine

Hot Towel
Wickham Soap Company Super Smooth Spice Trade
Kent Infinity Silvertex
Every Ready 1912 Bathroom Set - Rhino [3]
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
Alt Innsbruck Cologne

Technique

Bowl Lathered
Three Pass - WTG, XTG & ATG

Impression

First, the soap. Wickham Soap Company have another fantastic scent in their line-up. Spice Trade is a spicy little number, tip of the hat, ode to, whatever ... to Old Spice. Right there with all those warm spices, this soap jumps right in there in their champion Super Smooth formula. I gather this scent is destined for their hard soap formula, and it was a pleasure to try it out in the tried, tested and now production Super Smooth formula.

It's a good 'un!

Now, you're looking at that picture and thinking ... "that's a double edge blade, that is" ... and you'd be right in thinking that.

I cannot profess to be the man behind this, but I have in the past mused about snipping off the sides and the back edge to make a double edge fit. Well, double edge blades do fit - we ust need to trim the edges and to make them fit without potentially weakening the retaining clip, just pinch them. That pinch gives the right kink for the blade to fit into a single edge razor, do its thing and leave you very happy.

In a 1912, a double edge blade does not shave as close as it does in a double edge razor.

For me, that is a good thing. I get a close shave, and with three passes, it is very smooth, but not so close that I will be expecting possible ingrowers. This was a shave that just shaved! Very close, very smooth, but still have everything that a single edge shave should - smooth, comfortable and absolutely without issue.

Perfect!

08/05/2014

SOTD 08/05/2014


Routine

Hot Towel
NSS Rasage Traditionnel
Kent Infinity Silvertex
Le Grelot Hospital - Feather Hi-Stainless Platinum [4]
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
4711 Echt Kölnisch  Wasser

Technique

Bowl Lathered
Two Pass - WTG & XTG

Impression

Fourth run for the Feather and for me, it's lovely and smooth now. In this Le Grelot, unlike a spined GEM blade, it felt just a little like it could slip. It didn't and prompted me to make a light shave; a good thing given the yawning blade gap.

I took my time, savoured and thoroughly enjoyed it.


07/05/2014

SOTD 07/05/2014


Routine

Hot Towel
Erasmic Shaving Cream
Kent Infinity Silvertex
Valet VC3 - Feather Hi-Stainless Platinum [3]
Hot Rinse & Cold Rinse
Quorum Aftershave
Quorum EDT

Technique

Bowl Lathered
Three Pass - With, Cross & Against the Grain

Impression

Sensational lather from the Erasmic Cream! So thick and protective!

Superb shave from this British Valet VC3. Very smooth, indeed. Third run with the blade and I think it's getting better.

05/05/2014

SOTD 05/05/2014


Routine

Shower
Erasmic Shaving Soap
Kent Infinity Silvertex
Valet VC4 (British) - Feather Hi-Stainless Platinum [2]
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
Pinaud Lilac Vegetal

Technique

Bowl Lathered
Two Pass - WTG & XTG

Impression

Ahhhhhh ....

What a lovely light, easy and smooth shave.

The VC4 is a little cracker! Mine has the short handle and came in a small Bakelite box with the strop in pretty reasonable condition. Used with modern Feather blades, I see little use for the strop, but it's nice to have in the set.

04/05/2014

SOTD 04/05/2014

May the fourth be with you!

Another run with the Chinese Rhino blade ...


Routine

Hot Towel
Arko Stick
Kent Inifinity Silvertex
Gillette Tech (Stamped Head) templ8 Ball End Handle - Rhino [2]
4711 Echt Kölnisch Wasser

Technique

Face Lathered
Two Pass - WTG & XTG

Impression

Another superb shave from the Rhino! Again, almost like there's no blade in there, it just glides ... but close, even in a mild razor.

03/05/2014

SOTD 03/05/2014

Inspired by Bruce on Shaving's Three Razor Shave and with a newly acquired Gillette Flair Tip Trio, I thought I'd have a go ...



Routine

Hot Towel
NSS Ice & Slice OO Shaving Cream
Pure Badger
Gillette Flair Tip Trio - Rhino [1]
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
Rose of Bulgaria Aftershave

Technique

Bowl Lathered
Three Pass - WTG (Red), XTG (Silver) & ATG (Blue)

Impression

You know what? I think there's some merit in this idea. I had fun, anyway ...

That Rhino blade was a surprise! What a very smooth blade which very much felt like I had no blade in. Yes, I did have to check with the first pass in the Red Tip. It was there, and it was very much doing its thing.

02/05/2014

SOTD 02/05/2014


Routine

Hot Towel
Tabac Shaving Soap
Kent Infinity Silvertex
Le Grelot Hospital
CV Heljestrand Hollow Ground
Gillette Guard
Hot Rinse & Cold Rinse
Tabac Aftershave Lotion
Tabac Eau de Cologne

Technique

Bowl Lathered
Three Pass - WTG & XTG (Le Grelot) ATG (Gillette)

Impression

Another quite breathtaking shave from this Le Grelot with a hollow ground Heljestrand blade. Everything, absolutely everything I love in a shave.

The Le Grelot was clearly the star, but the supporting performers were all there, namely the Tabac products. Great performers with a great scent!

Intrigued by my new Gillette Guard, I pulled a final pass against the grain (not that it really needed it, but nice to polish) and thoroughly enjoyed it. I would not say that this will sound the death knell for the DE, not by a long shot. It's mild. By that, I mean it is very safe - you are not going to cut yourself with this, but equally, and a positive in my book, it doesn't shave mega-close, sub-skin like their modern cartridges do. It shaves close. Think of it as a Bic Sensitive with a wobbly head and a significantly better handle.

The Gillette Guard is a cracking little razor. 19 Rs for the handle with one head and 7 Rs for replacement heads, it's a bargain! By comparison, a Gillette Sterling 7 O'Clock is 100 Rs.

01/05/2014

SOTD 01/05/2014

I had a cracking shave last night with a really vocal Ern straight.

Today, I'm sensing it was not as close as perhaps I thought last night, but not to worry - I thoroughly enjoyed the shave and so, tonight, I'm going to use a tried and tested shave to even up and give a great preparation for my Friday night shave which will be that lovely Le Grelot again with the Heljestrand Hollow Ground blade.

But, tonight ...


Routine

Hot Towel
Stirling Bergamot & Lavender Soap
Kent Infinity Silvertex
Durham Duplex Straight Handle
Personna [6]
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
Old Spice Splash

Technique

Face Lathered
One Pass - WTG

Impression

I am really getting good at face lathering with this synthetic now. Initially, I had splatter all over the place, the brush holding and releasing water so easily. Now, I have found the right balance between water held, pressure applied and just how to direct the water to the soap on my face.

The shave was good ...

The DD did its thing. I got a good shave, not too close, setting me up perfectly for tomorrow and a proper classy shave tomorrow night.