30/06/2014

SOTD 30/06/2014


Routine

Bulldog Face Wash
Arko Stick
Kent Infinity Silvertex
Durham Dubarry - Personna [1]
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
Old Spice Aftershave

Technique

Face Lathered
Two Pass - WTG & XTG/ATG

Impression

After a great shave last night, first time with a FaTip ... tonight, I just wanted a good simple pass, but I couldn't resist a second one to really give a lovely close shave.

The DuBarry is not as fun as the T Type, but it's good, it works and it is give the self-same great results that all Durham razors do.

Pretty much a "safety straight".

29/06/2014

SOTD 29/06/2014


Routine

Bath
Erasmic Lather Shave Cream
Kent Silvertex Infinity
FaTip - Gillette Super Nacet Platinum (Thai) [2]
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
Aqua Velva Classic

Technique

Face Lathered
Two Pass - WTG & XTG

Impression

First go with a FaTip. Aggressive, but not overly so ... nice, for me. Proper smooth, now.

27/06/2014

SOTD 27/06/2014


Routine

Shower
Ingram Quality Lather Shave
Pure Badger
RADIO 1912 - GEM Coated [1]
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
Shibden Spice

Technique

Face Lathered
Two Pass - WTG & XTG

Impression

First go with my new to me RADIO 1912. The slightly longer and slimmer handle made for a change in shave and the blade exposure gave a very mild and smooth shave. I have compared this 1912 against my other 1912s and cannot see an engineering difference, but the blade exposure is less on the RADIO and so ... a milder shave.

Enjoyed.

26/06/2014

SOTD 26/06/2014


Routine

Bulldog Face Wash
NSS Moroccan Sands
Kent Infinity Silvertex
Canziani Scallop Comb - Gillette Super Thin [4]
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
Alt Innsbruck

Technique

Face Lathered
One Pass - WTG

Impression

Blow me down! I don't think there's a more aggressive double edge razor out there! This Canziani makes the Muhle R41 (yes, sneer and ask if I've tried the old head) feel like a luxury mower. Bloody hell! It's aggressive ...

With a yawning blade gap it's more like a blade on a stick. Very careful, very gentle and the lightest of touches. I got one nick where I pushed my luck. It bit, I paid attention and it didn't happen again.

With such a great shave from my Wilkinson Sword Pall Mall last night I needed no more than a single pass - a combination of a great previous shave and the sheer efficiency of this razor.

I think only this could pip it for aggression ...

25/06/2014

SOTD 25/06/2014


Routine

Bulldog Face Wash
Mitchell's Wool Fat Soap (Bradford, yay!)
Kent Infinity Silvertex
Wilkinson Sword Pall Mall
Wilkinson Sword Hollow Ground
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
Pinaud Lilac Vegetal

Technique

Face Lathered
Two Pass - WTG & modified XTG

Impression

First, many thanks to my pal who I affectionately now call 'The Whetter'. He honed up a couple of hollow ground blades that came with my Wilkinson Sword Pall Mall set and he's done a great job! Blimey! They're sharp!

First pass was brutal - practically baby smooth in one pass over a couple of days' growth. I realised I'd forgotten to set the blade aggression and had it on full volume. I dropped it down for a second pass across the grain and came up smiling. Lovely job.

Yes, it was strong, yes it was a little rough. Stropped after use, I think the second shave will be nicer.

Thank you, mate. Much enjoyed. You've brought my pride and joy into normal and proper use.

23/06/2014

SOTD 23/06/2014


Routine

Bulldog Face Wash
Erasmic Shaving Soap
Kent Infinity Silvertex
Gillette Techmatic
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
Old Spice Original

Technique

Face Lathered
Two Pass - WTG (High) & XTG (Medium) ... Polishing (Light+)

Impression

... and so, it's official: I can shave with a rusty spoon and get a smooth finish!

Reputed to be the worst shave ever, I thought I'd give it a go anyway and you know what? Perfectly good. No drama. Sleek, smooth and very happy. I'll do this again.

21/06/2014

SOTD 21/06/2014 Summer Solstice

Summer Solstice Shave


Routine

Bulldog Face Wash
Wickham Master Lather Mentholated (Grated)
Kent Silvertex Infinity
Gillette Twinjector - Twin Blade [2]
Hot Rinse & Cold Rinse
Hai Karate Original Aftershave

Technique

Bowl Lathered
Two Pass - WTG & XTG

Impression

Another close and smooth shave from this Twinjector rig.

Hai Karate is a retro-scent which I happened to pick up today for a couple of quid (I think). It's very much in the same vein as Pinaud Clubman, perhaps more lemon on the nose at first (quite a lot like Denim, in many respects) and most definitely more cooling. I like it!

As for fighting girls off ... well, it's not the aftershave ...

20/06/2014

SOTD 20/06/2014


Tabacaday!

Tabac Eau De Toilette (applied this morning)

Routine

Bulldog Face Wash
Tabac Shaving Soap - Pure Badger
Gillette New Standard - Gillette Platinum [3]
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
Tabac After Shave Lotion
Tabac Eau De Cologne

... drinking Gordon Graham's 'Black Bottle' Blended Scotch

Technique

Face Lathered
Two Pass - WTG & XTG

Impression

Sound!

19/06/2014

SOTD 19/06/2014


Routine

Bulldog Face Scrub
Erasmic Lather Shave Cream
Kent Infinity Silvertex
Gillette Travel Tech - Gillette Rubie Platinum Plus [2]
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
Quorum Aftershave
Van Cleef & Arpels Pour Homme

Technique

Bowl Lathered
Two Pass - WTG & XTG

Impression

My new Gillette four piece is a thing of beauty! Trust Gillette to get it right, where other travel razors are bit rough and ready, Gillette really grabbed the gold with this one. Simply put, well engineered. I enjoyed the blade, too.

Quorum followed by VC&A is as impressive as 'the Veg' & Eucris. What a scent! Not the same, just similar in effect and combination.

Cracking!

18/06/2014

SOTD 18/06/2014


Routine

T&H No.10 Cleansing Scrub
T&H No.10 Pre-Shave Skin Protector
T&H No.10 Finest Shaving Cream
Kent Infinity Silvertex
Gillette Slim Adjustable (1966 L4) - Gillette Platinum [2]
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
Denim Aftershave

Technique

Face Lathered
Two Pass - WTG (9) & XTG (5)

Impression

Lovely!

16/06/2014

SOTD 16/06/2014


Routine

Bulldog Face Wash
Mitchell's Wool Fat
Kent Infinity Silvertex
AutoStrop 7 O'Clock - GEM Blue Star [4]
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
Pinaud Clubman Virgin Island Bay Rum

Technique

Face Lathered
Two Pass - WTG & Modified XTG

Impression

I love the Fat ... a few gentle swirls and a lather explosion!

I've used this razor before with a modified Feather blade. It was very efficient, some would say aggressive, but I like aggressive. When I first fitted a test GEM blade, I thought the exposure was so slight that it couldn't possibly shave ... but I lent it to a pal who tried just that and reported that it shaved perfectly well.

It does ...

... although maybe on the mild side for me. There was no danger! I could just swipe away and the stubble came off. Puh! Where's the fun in that?

Best get my kicks from a good splash of VIBR, eh?

15/06/2014

SOTD 15/06/2014


Routine

Shower
SuperMax Ultimate Classic
Kent Infinity Silvertex
Shick Super II - Gillette PII [2]
Hot Rinse & Cold Rinse
Aqua Velva Classic

Technique

Bowl Lathered
Two Pass - WTG & XTG

Impression

Champion!

14/06/2014

SOTD 14/06/2014


Routine

Bulldog Face Wash
Bulldog Shave Gel
Golf [GDR] - Gillette Super Thin (Vintage) [3]
Hot Rinse & Cold Rinse
Pinaud Clubman Aftershave Lotion

Technique

Two Pass - WTG & Pinched XTG

Impression

So, what is that curious contraption that I've laid before you?

It's a Golf. Waits carried an entry for Golf being a German manufacturer out of Leipzig and Berlin during the 1920s and 1930s. The logo on this razor is the same, so I can only presume it to be the same company ... but there was a war in between and I think the brand went over to the Communists, who brought colour to the drabness with this curious single (exposed) edge shaver.

Is it an SE? Is it a DE?

Dropping this vintage Gillette Super Thin in for a third time and using a transparent, brushless gel I could clearly see it was doing a great job. Good choice on the blade, since like the GEM Contour that it resembles and mild razors, like the Gillette Tech, it sings with a sharp blade.

The razor itself tamed the blade and I could press quite hard to get a super-smooth shave. Once with the grain and once with what I call a "pinched" cross the grain pass - working from the outside of my face in, incorporating an against the grain shave up my neck and over my chin. Two passes.

In all, a smooth shave. I could not help thinking I was shaving with a child's toy given the looks, but the build quality is actually quite good. Stainless steel on top, quality, heavy plastic handle and heavy metal click/release mechanism behind.

I took a gamble and it paid off ...

It's a keeper!

13/06/2014

SOTD 13/06/2014


Routine

Bulldog Face Scrub
Tabac Shaving Soap
Wilkinson Sword W19 - GEM Blue Star [3]
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
Tabac Aftershave Lotion
Tabac Eau De Cologne

Technique

Face Lathered
Three Pass - WTG, XTG & ATG

Impression

Tabac Friday!

I've enjoyed the EDT through the day, so it seemed right to carry on this evening ...

First go with my Wilkinson Sword W19. Gone is the Archimedes Screw, up front is now and runner guard; gone is the adjuster screw. As luck would have it, a GEM blade with the corners cracked off slips perfectly into this razor, as it does with all previous Empires but therein lies the end of the similarities. This shave is as different to the Empire as a GEM Contour is to a 1912 or a Valet VC4 to a VC1.

It is milder, hence the three pass. It is smoother, hence the three pass. I chased baby smooth and got it.

The head is large and it is perhaps a struggle to get under the nose without a diagonal slide and a sideways swipe. My top lip feels sensationally smooth! That large head really wants to be balanced by a thicker and longer handle for my preference, but the handle we have does the trick. Clearly does the trick.

Yes, it is so substantially different to the Empire models of the '30s, but then this is from the '50s and razors moved on ... a lot! Enjoyed!

12/06/2014

SOTD 12/06/2014


Routine

T&H No.10 Cleansing Scrub
NSS Ice & Slice (OO)
Kent Silvertex Infinity
GEM Damaskeene - GEM Blue Star [2]
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
Aqua Velva Classic

Technique

Face Lathered
Two Pass - WTG & XTG

Impression

I am really getting the hang of face lathering with this synthetic now. Initially, I found it far to "flinging" for me compared to the badger. Now, I'm finding I can gauge the wetness just right and face lathering with a softy like this is just lovely.

You might notice this is a different GEM Damaskeene from last night. This one is quite late, perhaps even beyond the 1919 merger with American Safety Razor Co. since it is no longer a "Use only with ..." advertiser, but simply (from the cutout) GEM Damaskeene Blades ... and carries the self same handle of the slightly later GEM New DeLuxe.

Another smashing shave ...

Hard to tell just how cooling the Aqua Velva is after a face-freezer like NSS Ice & Slice, but it is very welcome - much like Brut in terms of scent, more burn to my skin, more cooling and all round just really classic.

11/06/2014

SOTD 11/06/2014

My first Damaskeene shave ...


Routine

Bulldog Face Wash
Erasmic Shaving Soap
Kent Infinity Silvertex
GEM Damaskeene - GEM Blue Star [1]
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
Pinaud Lilac Vegetal

Technique

Face Lathered
Two Pass - WTG & Pinched XTG

Impression

Actually, the head on this Damaskeene is a replacement for one which arrived from the US a week or so back and was so bad I'd rather put it as unusable. Shame. Still, the handle was okay. I stropped the blade before use, having read that these can be a little rough; that, and the constitution of the steel responds very well to stropping ... and it did. It was a very smooth shave indeed! Thanks to Norfolk Dick for the blade.

Face lathered Erasmic is a sheer joy! First pass swept everything away, the second, a pass I call a "pinched XTG" goes from the extremities of my face to the middle in all directions, so I get an XTG across my face and an ATG up my neck and over my chin. I find this two pass system with an occasional "exploding XTG" (basically, from the middle out) seems to work for my face.

The alum wash proved a close and clean shave with no issues. Finally, a splash of The Veg' ... what a delight!

Bloomin' lovely!

09/06/2014

SOTD 09/06/2014

Monday Musk


Routine

Bulldog Face Wash
Mitchell's Wool Fat Soap
Kent Infinity Silvertex
Swing Travel Razor - Gillette Silver Blue [3]
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
Jovan Musk

Technique

Bowl Lathered
Two Pass - WTG & XTG

Impression

I got a new shaving soap bowl today, a bakelike Dubarry Silkashave into which it only seemed right to drop a puck of Mitchell's.

The razor is a '20s travel razor from Sweden, a Swing, into which I dropped a final run Gillette Silver Blue.

Cracking shave, although perhaps a little narrow on angle with the razor, but a couple of passes did it.

Smooth again ...

07/06/2014

SOTD 07/06/2014

After such a great shave last night using a Gillette Twinjector blade and handle, I thought I'd revisit a couple of injectors which I absolutely love the shave of ...


Routine

Bulldog Face Wash
Billy Jealousy Hydroglide
Personna Injector - Chinese Schick [1]
PAL Adjustable Injector - Gillette Platinum Plus [2]
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash (Twice)
Alt Innsbruck

Technique

Latherless
Two Pass - WTG (PAL Adjustable on H), XTG (Personna) & ATG (PAL Adjustable on L)

Impression

I now know two things: First, that the Chinese Schick blades, or "Chicks", do not suit me at all. Rough! Second, I have most definitely found the angle with these two.

Using the adjustable for the first pass H, it was smooth and efficient. Switching to the Personna for the cross the grain pass, it was rough all the way ... loads of weepers and almost as bad as my first DE shave. By now I was largely BBS. Switching back to the adjustable dialled down to L, that final pass was smooth and fully delivered BBS.

Rinsed off, I had to go with two applications of alum, the second continuous until the blood stopped!

Cooling cologne was very welcome ...

Encouraging, nevertheless. I love the shape of these razors, so it is good to confirm the blades that I do not get on with and that I can use both to good effect. It was a learning curve, but a hard lesson in the middle.

06/06/2014

SOTD 06/06/2014



Oh, my goodness! I think this is my best shave yet!

Routine

Bulldog Face Wash
NSS Rasage Traditionnel
Kent Infinity Silvertex
Gillette Twinjector - Gillette Twin [1]
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
Blue Stratos Aftershave

Technique

Bowl Lathered
Two Pass - WTG & XTG

Impression

What a shave!

I know I say that quite a lot, and it is in respect of having just had a great shave, but this was a GREAT shave!

Much thanks to NorfolkDick, from TSR Forums, who very generously sent me his last Twinjector blade. His last. My first. Citing then as vicious little vampires, I proceeded with caution, which stood me in good stead for a very efficient and very close shave.

What a shave!

Just when you think there's no danger and apply just a little too much pressure, it bites! Not hard, just a little nip, just enough to release blood but not really cut. I bet with a bit of pressure it would rip and tear like a werewolf, but gently run, yes, it's a vampire.

I got two little nicks which absolutely completely and utterly disappeared in the cold rinse, not to even be mentioned in the alum wash.

What a shave!

The spicy, woody soap was so nice, complimented perfectly by the marine, fresh spice and lightly woody aftershave.

What a shave!

Dick - thank you so much. What an experience. What a shave!

05/06/2014

SOTD 05/06/2014

Drinking ... pink gin.


Routine

Bulldog Face Wash
NSS English Rose (Original)
Kent Infinity Silvertex
Gillette 7 O'Clock PII
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
Rose of Bulgaria Aftershave

Technique

Bowl Lathered
Two Pass - WTG & XTG

Impression

What a cracking shave!

This is not my first disposable shave since coming to traditional shaving since I've used a couple of Bic Sensitives, a Bic Metal and my Gillette Guard quite a bit, but this is my first twin blade shave since coming to traditional shaving.

The Gillette 7 O'Clock PII is a re-release of the Trac-II for the Indian market. It is a fixed head razor which slides into disposable cartridge heads. To my mind, the difference between this and an injector is minimal. Contentious, I know ... but that's how I see it.

With the grain, it efficiently whisked away the day, cross the grain polished up just nicely. Not too close, but a damn fine shave. I'm sure with a pass against the grain, I'd get to baby smooth, but I don't really like to shave that close. The angle was immediately accessible, something which can be difficult with some injectors and the fixed head allowed me to control that angle, something that I don't like about later disposables with floating heads; Gillette Guard excepted since for some reason I get on with that very well indeed.

In summary, smooth, but not quite as smooth running as the Gillette Guard. I had a couple of clicks where I thought I'd see a nick, but no raspberry jam was forthcoming. The alum wash proved an uneventful shave. Certainly smoother than the Bic Metal and closer than a Bic Sensitive. I enjoyed this and will certainly use it again. I might even buy a pack of cartridges, although the Gillette Guard ticks ALL the boxes for me for a disposable.

I very much enjoyed the soap, too, a floral scent rather than the sweet, near sickly Turkish Delight of the aftershave. Still, I do love that aftershave.

Fun!

04/06/2014

SOTD 04/06/2014


Routine

Bulldog Face Wash
NSS Citrus Zinger (Original)
Kent Infinity Silvertex
Gillette Contract Tech - Gillette 365 [3]
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
4711

Technique

Bowl Lathered
Two Pass - WTG & XTG

Impression

I love NSS soaps! The face feel afterwards is just lovely.

The Tech played very nicely indeed with a third run on this Gillette 365 - a very capable blade, thin, smooth and forgiving.

Lovely splash of citrus afterwards to revive the citrus soap. All in a lovely shave. Not overly close, but smooth and very presentable. Nice.

02/06/2014

SOTD 02/06/2014

Nourishing ales for invalids ...


Routine

Bulldog Face Wash
Arko Stick
Kent Silvertex Infinity
Cowbrough Travel Razor - Gillette 365 [2]
Hot Rinse & Cold Rinse
Pinaud Clubman After Shave

Technique

Face Lathered
Two Pass - WTG & XTG

Impression

Reputed to be a vicious vampire, actually I found this travel razor to be absolutely and perfectly smooth. Run with a Gillette 365, which is in itself a very well kept secret, the angle was obvious (to me) and the blade did its thing.

I rank this as an excellent shave.

01/06/2014

SOTD 01/06/2014


Routine

Bulldog Face Wash
Rose of Bulgaria Shaving Cream
Kent Infinity Silvertex
Merkur 38C Slant
Gillette Silver Blue [2]
Hot Rinse, Cold Rinse & Alum Wash
Rose of Bulgaria Aftershave

Technique

Bowl Lathered
Two Pass - WTG & XTG ... is that a four pass with a slant?

Impression

What a great choice! Coming off a couple of straight edge shaves, nothing like a classic Gillette blade and a wonky Merkur razor!